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I have the a Haldex diagnostic box that I bought on eBay, but I haven't tried using it yet. From your symptom of the light staying on, that sounds like exactly what the box is made for: reading error information out of the control unit when it's indicating a failure. I'd give that a try after...
I haven't looked inside the engine compartment in a few weeks, but based on that drawing in the TM and the pictures I have handy of my truck's engine compartment, I think that valve isn't easily visible from the ground. I think you'll need to climb up into the passenger side of the engine...
That would be the "personnel heater vent valve", not "personal heater vent valve". It's just a little drain valve, like a radiator drain valve or the air tank drain valves. It's located on the heater box inside the engine compartment. It's at a high point in the heater core, and lets you bleed...
That is correct. The slave cable probably won't provide a good, reliable connection to ground since it is bolted to thin, painted cab sheet metal, but it can't be relied on to be isolated from ground, either.
Like goldeneagle says, it is necessary to interrupt both the frame ground cable and...
I have a big crimper from McMaster-Carr that I use for my battery/welding lugs. It has adjustable dies that make hex crimps, and it's made like a medium-sized bolt cutter. It cost a few hundred bucks, but it works very well. They also sell the hammer type crimpers for about $40, but I like hex...
Of course, if I chop off the existing clamps and crimp on lugs for direct connection to the battery studs, I can always bolt on a set of the military-style clamps if I get batteries with post terminals in the future. That might be my best option. McMaster-Carr carries the military-style clamps...
I could swap them out if I had another use for the ones with studs, but I don't. So, I'm stuck with these studly ones for now. When I bought them, my local Pep Boys didn't have any group 31s with posts in stock.
The group 31 (if I recall correctly) batteries that I've bought for my CUCV have stud terminals. I bought the cast lead stud to post adapters that screw onto the studs and then accept the truck's regular battery terminal clamps. Whenever I've used these adapters, I've found that they easily...
I bought a couple of 5-tons out of Barstow this year. I wish I could blame it on BUI, but unfortunately it was just BWS (Bidding While Stupid). :)
I had them towed from Barstow to my place in Riverside for around $650 each. My wrecker came with full fuel tanks, and I figure that pretty much...
Be VERY VERY CAREFUL using reverse in low range. And by "very very careful", I mean you probably shouldn't do it. TMs, dash plates and Steel Soldiers members alike caution against it. Using reverse in low range is an easy way to crack the transfer case housing wide open. Some folks say it should...
Agreed, my winch cable is probably a bit stiffer from disuse.
I see what you mean about armor plates. When I was operating the winch, it crossed my mind that it didn't seem like a good place to be standing if anything came loose.
I have considered adding remote controls to the winch and crane...
I also agree with Artisan's comments about air brake lag. Air brakes are great, but they behave a bit differently than hydraulic brakes and they take a little getting used to. When I went to trucking school, getting a feel for the air brakes was one of the very first lessons. As I recall, we...
That is normally correct. But, it is possible for the front axle to not engage in low range, either from misadjustment or deliberate modification. After spinning my wheels some on my M923 shortly after I got it, I figured out by dumb luck that my front axle didn't automatically engage in low...
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