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1/4" vacuum line. It's thinner than fuel line. Get a piece long enough to reach down to the bottom of the footwell and secure it with electrical "P" clips. That way when you bleed the filter it won't piss diesel all over the panel.

The numbers on the front and rear are unit registration numbers and have nothing to do with the vehicles serial number on the B pillar data plate. They are assigned by the units that receive the vehicle so I'm not sure there's an easy way to track them just by using that number. Post a picture...

The seats are a variation on Isringhausens truck seat line. When I had to rebuild my seat base 20 years ago it was the only way to get parts for them and original seat bases were few and far between. Isringhausen helped me out no problem. Check their website and see if they have something...

Having spent hours with my butt on both seats I can guarantee the high backs are the way to go. They are to your bottom what radial tires are to the road! LOL

HMMWV dash ground image: This ground is a known problem point and is typically the cause of a lot of strange gauge readings when it loosens up or gets corroded. What I did with mine was to replace the screw with a 1" long stainless setscrew with a star washer and nut on both sides...

It's highly unlikely that geared hub oil is getting out to the rotors so if your seeing it there it's probably differential oil. That's another story altogether. I've never pulled the diffs out but suspect you will need to drop them to service the output shaft seals.

Keep in mind that the body of the HMMWV is not a reliable ground because of it's construction. It's not like your regular car. Your relay return line ( - ) should tie back to one of the vehicle ground points. There's one behind the heater controls or you could tie into the ground point on the...

Now's a good time to drain the hub and inspect inside. The hex drain plug can be a PITA to remove but everything else is easy. Both the side plates and the axle seals can be done in the vehicle. The job is pretty straightforward and can be done without removing it. Pull the wheel and remove...

Sorry gents, I hadn't considered the high current loading you might get with a voltage converter. Your right, in this application a relay is the best way to go. My solutions would work well for low current loads like LED lighting. As an engineer I've seen too many cobbled together nightmares...

There's no need to complicate things with a relay when it's a simple matter to feed a converter directly from a line switched by the ignition switch. When it comes to electrical circuitry the KISS principle works for non-electricians.

I did a search for "military wiring extension" and the short harness you need to relocate the taillights comes up.

Same point electrically. Both of those lines are switched by the Start-Run switch.

Yes, that may be true but a $60 regulator and a set of $5 brushes beats the heck out of a $500 alternator.

The original latch is just a standard Southco draw latch. I used an aircraft latch I had around because it fits flush.

You didn't state which of the alternators you have on your truck but the voltage adjustment for the standard 60 amp alternator is pretty straightforward. CAREFULLY remove the small metal cover on the connection block. The large 8 gauge power wire is battery power and close to it. There's a...

When I dropped my 996 body on 18 years ago we ran chains diagonally from the lifting bolts build into the body (on the sloping panels) with a forklift No problem at all. What we did was to lift the body straight up and then back the truck under it and lower it down. 5 bolts and 2 wires later...

The #54 wire to the top of the IP is powered up with the ignition switch and would be an easy place to access a switched 24 volt line for your converter. If you want to drop the instrument cluster you could pick up the +24v signal to the gauges. Tee into one of the ribbed connectors on the gauges.

There are several online videos about troubleshooting these problems along with a complete flow chart in the -20 manuals specifcally to address overheating issues. Your right that there are several different problems that could be causing it but follow the guidelines in the manuals and get back...

I have digitized PRC-138 manuals if anyone needs a copy. That should make interfacing easier. Here's the connector info for J1, J2, and J6:

The CX-4720 is the standard 4 pin power cable that was used with the VRC-12 series radios. When they started fielding the Sincgars series radios they changed the material on the outside and gave them all new numbers but in most cases their the same wiring wise. You'll also notice some 45...