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well, i doubt we will get enough hot weather here this year for any more meaningful test results, but on a 80° day with full sun and the windows up it was nice. air from evap was 44° tom

also depending on how you insure it and tag it, carring anything at all in the bed may be illegal and if anything at all happens you may not be covered. so i would say if you have several millions for the damages lawsuit, go for it.

many have wanted 12 volts from 24. a last resort is a converter. what is best is a battery equilizer. this unit has 3 wires, ground, 12 volt and 24 volt. you leave it connected all the time, no idle current to worry about and usually 90% to 95% efficient so very little heat. as you may suppose...

just put led lights on the trailer and you are done..............

use laquer thinner to clean the system after you take it completely apart. then run it for a while on gasoline to futher clean the system. and NEVER use any amount of air pressure to try and clean things, it will ruin the fragile diaphrams. most of these heaters have been sitting for many years...

you have a diesel weed eater?? never seen one of them!!! diesel is a oil and as such will store for a very long time. gas will not as it evaporates. i once drove home a truck on 18 year old fuel. it was dark but ran well. the fuel, not the night. tom

the engine usually has the clutch housing and the trans has the bell housing. with the right clutch housing for the detroit it should bolt right up?? you may be interested in one of my od gear sets......... tom

design amd build 4 valve heads, add intercooler, should make an easy 400 hp and still be reliable. i have too much to do in the next 25 years or i would tackle it.

posted more pics in the first message...........

you are thinking of the clutch housing on the engine, i consider the front housing of the transmission the bell housing. there is a gasket between the 'bell housing' and the transmission. without it the trans may leak oil. the bearing # is 1308SL and with a bright light you may be able to tell...

buy a new pump it's the cheapest way to go. call john winslow, he has the best price.

i have the template for the rear mount, the 2 others are just 1/4" by 1 1/4" cold rolled stock. the fan only clears the compresor shaft by 1/16"!! but anything is enough........

where does it leak?? there is a gasket for the 'bell housing', and a seperate gasket for the release bearing sleeve in the front. there is also a choice of front bearings and one has a shield that would limit the amount of oil that the reverse thread would have to deal with.

first, the guy that sold it to you does not know what he is talking about. 5th shift fork is also 4th fork. if you have 4th the fork is there. does it shift to 5th position? so since you have had it, it has never had 5th?? it may have been removed because something was broken and they did not...

new SD508 compressor, $155 new condenser, $90 new evaporator, $135 2 belts, $34 hose fittings, $17

i have one from a UD (nissan) have not had water in air tanks for 6000 miles. none. tom

easiest part is the 24 v fan, just use a resistor. i started a new thread 'deuce a/c project'. compressor is almost mounted.

some had speculated that mounting an a/c compressor on the deuce would be rather difficult. almost finished, i can say that it was surprisingly simple. still need to make rear brace, but have template made so just have to shape the 5/16 plate and drill holes. update, compressor finished...

got my compressor today and took the radiator out just to make things easy. there are 5 bolts just begging to be used for compressor mounting. one lines up perfectly with one compressor ear. have it all planed and will take pics monday. does not look to be more than a half day job. tom

tolerances are .0001 or less...........dirt in fuel, running out of fuel will kill one if it is already worn.