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$900? Toms kit was $1350 last I checked. I'm about to buy the kit myself, so if you have some kind of "In" with him I'd like to partake of that!

Apply some heat, then oil to cool it, then heat, then oil to cool it, then try pulling it out. it needs to be hot enough to burn the oil off when you first start to cool it with the oil. The PB should work fine for this.

Yeah that's true.

If it is a short crack just splice the tube back to itself, if it is a long crack then yes, you will need to get another section of tubing to splice in. It SHOULD be copper, but it sounds like either someone rerouted the line before you got the truck, or you don't have a deuce. The deuce fuel...

Cut out the cracked section with a small tubing cutter and splice it back together with a 1/2" compression union, available in the plumbing section of your local hardware store.

That is a parts truck. I've torched up trucks in better shape. Part it out, save the money, and buy one that is in better shape and has a title. Sorry man.

At least it looks like you didn't have any stopleak in your cooling system.

Just priced a service kit at napa for the dryer on my M936... $130 for the kit. A member has whole new dryers in the classifieds for $140 shipped as I recall...

If you have a title for it I would fix it. A whole truck wiring harness can be had for under $400, plastic fuel lines are cheap, just use dot air line. The button has probably dropped off the bottom of the hydraulic head too. Maybe a two hour job to fix that. $50 for an in tank lift pump on EBay...

Did you use the proper gasket behind the bearing retainer? I sure hope so...

I got all the parts to do mine. I'll be testing use with all LED lights to verify whether it works or not. I'll get you an old one in the mail in the next couple days so you can convert your other truck. I have to mail some money orders and parts out so I'll send it to you then.

Yep definitely reseal it. They always leak. I need to find a reseal kit for mine. Hard to find them.

That is a lot less work. I suppose that's why I still have a slight tick on one cylinder that I'm living with. Oh well, this engine is coming out soon anyway.

Looks like the one in question here just had the feet installed upside down. Not to take away from what you said Angus, just pointing out what it looked like to me.

You beat me to it. With the ears still bent the feet will move around in it and cause more stress, eventually breaking it anyway.

Every time you fuel up. It is to keep the lubricity of the fuel up. Too much injector cleaner can actually cause the specifications of the fuel to change for the worse, but only if it is dosed too heavily. Using every fillup is fine as long as he doesn't add too much to the fuel when he fills...

Just reseal your old one and replace the input bearing. You can get the seals and bearing at napa. $23 each for the seals at napa. I can give you the SKF part number if you want it. Funny though, they come straight from Rockwell to napa in an SKF box.

Yeah I wouldn't heat it. It isn't bent that bad. Just put it in a hydraulic press and squeeze the ears back together, then add your weld beads.

Straighten the ears and beef it up on the sides and inside the radius with some good beads of weld. Don't use it without safety chains.

Engine must be COLD and both valves must be fully closed on each cylinder at time of adjustment.