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Yes I realize that, just as was stated before I could get back here, there is a vastly different additive package. Like was mentioned, run what you want. I just prefer the gear oil, and I run Lucas in mine on top of that, which may or may not be the only reason mine hasn't had any bearing or...

Stick them up there where you need them, tack weld them in place, drill your new holes, then bolt it back in place. Like Wreckerman said, be sure to get all the bolts back through the rear crossmember. The rear crossmember is strong enough to do recovery from. Remember that is where the pintle...

What were you running it off of? I couldn't tell in the video. By the way, props to you for getting that thing running. That is one of the roughest looking multifuels I've seen yet.

Because lubrication technology has vastly improved since 1949, and parts are getting more scarce for these by the day. The newer lube order calls for 80/90 anyway.

But for how long? How much have you ran it that way? These transmissions were barely heavy duty enough to stay in one piece in our trucks from the beginning, I certainly have some reservations about using an even lighter oil in an already stressed transmission. I'm sure it works fine for those...

They are both there for structural integrity, if that is what you are asking. Like everyone else said, they are just for protection of several other parts of the truck. For recovery you would need to replace the rear shackles and brackets with larger ones from an A3 or a 5 ton. Factory small...

80/w90 GL-1 gear oil for axles, trans, transfer case, steering box, and winch. Make sure you change the oil in both sides of the winch.

Those are nice drain valves, but not necessary once you install a good air dryer, which you SHOULD.

We can all laugh at you because we've all done it. So without further adieu....rofl:lol:rofl

I just had the guys at Advance cross reference the napa shock number in the parts reference guide sticky. I don't remember the number, but it was a pair of yellow Monroe brand 1/2" rod shocks, but my bushings were different.

Your probably right. It could be water though. Have you drained the air tanks yet? Water shouldn't get in the brake fluid from the air tank, I just figured I'd ask. The previous owner may have sank the truck in a mudhole and left it for days or even longer, possibly allowing water intrusion from...

Right, all automotive type batteries vent when they are charged, which produces hydrogen, so if the box is in fact sealed make sure that there is some ventilation, otherwise you may end up with a crater where your truck used to be.

Yes, drill and tap for 1/8" npt to allow a variance of bleed screws to be used depending on the taste of the consumer.

I would advise making the filter bosses a 1"-14 thread. Lots of options for filter size and micron rating there, all the way down to 2 micron.

Turbo flange gasket on my 936 is blown out too. Apparently it got loose and I didn't catch it in time. Of course nobody can look up a simple gasket without an engine serial number.... Morons...

Agreed. Poly hose is rigid enough to no have any issues. When people say "hose" it means rubber hose to me unless otherwise specified.

I don't know how far Crosby is from here, but if you come to me I have a wrecker and we can swap it out easy.

Your best bet now is really just to split the winch and remove the pin from the other side before you damage the case.

I wouldn't replace the entire length with hose on the supply side. Long runs of hose = pressure loss, that's why most of the fuel system is hard line and only short sections are soft line.

Yes, 3/8" is definitely the return line. You said the line came FROM the tank to the engine, so my first thought was that it was supply. My mistake. Glad you got it fixed.