Search results

You should be getting 28-29v with the engine running. You need to do away with the old generator/ external regulator and replace it with either a civilian upgrade or the military 28v alternator. Too many failure points and modes of failure with that old setup.

You are tripping the circuit breaker in the switch. You need to inspect your harness for a short to ground. Check mainly around all four signal lamps back up into the frame, and check under the dash around the steering column.

I would pay $1700 for it in a heartbeat. If you get it for that you can realistically drop in a multifuel and matching transmission for probably less than the cost of the truck. of course you could keep it the way it is too. Look at it this way, if you were to buy it and cut it up, you could get...

So I've driven my truck around with the Prv set as it is for two days now and it is running just fine. No stumbling, lack of power, or higher rpm fuel starvation signs. I still intend to shim the valve with one more tiny washer to bump the pressure up a bit more, but it is acceptable as it is...

You could post the engines up for sale, or at least one of them, and cut your worries in half... The motor you have really depends on the depot that built it and the build date.

That was very helpful rusty. And it gives me my answer. I need to retain the Prv on my LDT, but when I swap in my LDS I can remove it from the system without too much fear of I'll effect, if I read that all right. Pretty sure my LDS has a code F pump. And, the Ford XM 656 8x8 trucks had the...

You should be able to get an alternator for your HMMWV that puts out both 12v and 24v from two separate sets of terminals on the case. That is probably your best bet.

Gotcha. Just thought I'd let you know. That base is a 1"-14 thread, there is a multitude of filters that you can use with that base. Many more choices than with other thread sizes. I have a list I did while researching to build my setup. I'll post it later today.

Tom, that secondary filter base on your engine is the same base that I used as my final on my filter assembly I just built. I pulled mine off of an S1800 before it went to scrap. If you get creative and move that base so you have more room underneath it, you can run a Napa #3422 filter, which is...

I appreciate that. I put a good bit of time and thought into keeping it clean looking, even relocating the return lines back behind the filter setup.

I bet there is at least one sitting in someone's barn, field, grown up in the woods behind somebody's house, maybe back in the back of a closed down museum covered in 1/2" of dust. Just forgotten about for decades, or rotting away because some redneck just knows that he has " A old rusty armored...

I may open my valve back up and put one more shim in today. We'll see how I feel about it later today. One more should bump me up to 30psi at idle.

Well that is a G code pump in that diagram, same as mine. It also confirms that the relief does indeed open at 60 or 70 psi like Floridianson suggested.

I agree. I'm going to keep the copper line as best I can. I have replaced all of the soft lines and plastic lines, but we all know they go bad over time. I'll see how this plays out with this pressure relief set the way it is. If I lose a HH then I'll just do away with the Prv and go from there...

I should add here that Rusty did tell me not too long ago that all Diesel engines need a pressure relief to refrain from damaging components on shutdown, so thanks to him I learned something that I didn't know before. I just finished putting everything back together again. I removed the Prv...

That would be very helpful. I did a "feel" test on the old filter base on my bench with a round punch today and it did feel quite stiff, which leads me to believe it has a pretty high crack pressure and an even higher fully open pressure. I thought before that this valve was to bypass pressure...

G, what I saw in the TM was that originally there was no pressure relief valve, only that the booster pump has a built in pressure regulator. So is it even necessary to have this pressure relief? I mean honestly these modern filters are rated to a minimum of 100 psi and have a steel core so they...

Yeah I noticed my retaining screw was flush with the end of the valve when I put everything together. I guess I should have fiddled with it, then I would have noticed it was loose. Looks like I'm taking it back apart and adjusting/ tightening that screw. Crap... Let me see if I can post a pic of...

Anyone happen to know what the opening pressure, and fully open pressure settings on the factory fuel pressure relief located on the secondary fuel filter housing is? I finished my spin on filter setup and installed it today, used an aftermarket pressure relief valve recommended by Rustystud...

Put a short extension in the plug and smack it a few good times with a hammer like you are trying to drive the extension through the plug, then try it.