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Yep, that is a lot of work. I finished one for another member the same way recently. Finished building a spin on fuel filter setup to replace my secondary and final fuel filters today but I haven't installed it yet. Down to 2 microns!

Pick a winch that you can actually move the drum lock on and go from there. You can also lock the clutch lever on the winch in and see if you can spin the driveshaft. It should not turn freely with the clutch lever engaged, if it does then one of the gears inside is broken. Other than that they...

Pull the belts and run it that way. It may be alternator bearings. Could be water pump too, but hard to tell without spin I g it by hand. You can solder aluminum by the way.... But the oil cooler housings can be had pretty cheap anyway. Order yourself a new injector line, but definitely adjust...

You need to fix that missing cylinder before you wash out a piston and liner. If you are any good with soldering you can fix the radiator and oil cooler housing yourself.

That is a tapping valve. You need to adjust them. Probably why you have that miss too.

You are kidding right? That's a HMMWV...

So it sounds like Royal Purple 15w40 is the way to go for our trucks if your wallet can stand it.

You should be fine with the way that is set up David. You just have a shift lever to engage the front drive instead of an air switch on the dash.

I have my west coast mirrors set where I can see the side of the truck on both sides if I lean over just a hair either way, and my spots adjusted where I can just see the side of the truck in the inside of it. It also helps to have the bottom fisheye mirrors on the bottom of your big mirrors...

Your best bet would be to just move south of the salt belt...:wink:

A2 used 1 3/8" front and rear, A3 used 1 1/2" front and rear. You can interchange without issue.

Not if you've spent enough time underneath them!

That is a manual engagement kit, looks like a homemade attempt at an reb kit. It just converts the sprag case to actually be locked in when you want it to, including in reverse. Nothing wrong with that. Glad you got it running, I told you it would run.

You can get a set of all three o-rings from member Welldigger for $12 and they are Viton. There is the small one that seals the shutoff rod behind the two screw flange, and there are two larger ones that seal the head to the injector pump itself. Just have a little patience. If you put it back...

Yes, if it has been sitting for any period of time over a year or so your best bet is to remove the HH, clean both it and the shutoff rod, and replace the O-rings before even trying to crank it. That is the only sure fire way to avoid damaging or destroying a hydraulic head. Better safe than...

There is no improved method of retention so far. The only reason they pop off is because they sit for so long that old fuel gums up the head and when you spin it over it takes the spring pressure off and knocks the button off. Stick it back on there and be on your way. Don't feel bad about your...

David, there are already numerous threads on troubleshooting the deuce fuel system... And there honestly isn't all that much to a no start scenario. 95% on it being the HH button.

Dude, I would have given you my non working drill press. Only a couple years old and all it needs is a starting capacitor... I have a Smithy combo machine now so I don't need it.

The button may have fallen off the bottom of the HH, which won't allow the plunger to make a full stroke.

Centrifuging makes no difference there. The acidic compounds in the used motor oil is what reacts negatively with the vegetable oil. Centrifuging does not remove those compounds.