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Exporters don't care about road titling ability. The prices will likely stay high for a good while.

What Jason mentioned is worthy of note though. Adding some external oil lines to the head would be a great failsafe for uneasy issues such as these. Some careful drilling, tapping, and copper line fitting would greatly increase oil to the valve train. But where to run the lines to and from?

I'll do that next time I have a chance to pull the valve covers again. Probably best to take a short video.

Alright. So how do I tell the 135 rims from all the rest so that I know when I get my power steering kit from Tom?

It would be interesting to see. I would need to pull the valve covers... Again...

Whatever it is, I can't seem to kill it. I've added two different kinds of biocides, and some gasoline and the fuel still looks cloudy. Really looks no different.

I pulled the hand throttle out to 1200 rpm to see if it would improve and it did not make any improvement at all.

I really would love to know. It would seem that it has to be partial blockages of oil passages or channels somewhere within the rocker pivot shaft or the rockers themselves.

I believe the food grade oil is actually water based.

It really is a must for peace of mind. Once a main battery cable catches fire from a short there is little chance of putting it out in time to keep from burning the truck down. You have to use 3/4" heater hose and lube it with silicone spray lube to get the 1/0 cable to slide through. Of course...

As I mentioned in another thread, I adjusted my valves a couple days back and got one wrong, so I went back in and fixed it today. While I was in there I decided to run the engine without the valve covers installed to make sure I had no valve clatter again and check clearances after a short run...

Those are the riveted rims right?

I you have the time and money it isn't a bad idea to just replace all of the battery cables. The positive cable from the battery to starter should be sheathed in a three foot piece of 3/4" heater hose when you replace it because it is prone to chafing through where it lays on the motor mount...

Alright. Just be careful taking metal off of steering components.

Yeah, ya know... I was hoping I might get a couple more decades out of them:shrugs:

If it only does it one direction, and you can't turn as far to the right then you have something misadjusted.

I do not like valve clatter! I built and installed new battery cables today. My ground terminal broke off at the frame during the recovery of a 5 ton from Polk today. Apparently copper ring terminals only last 47 years or so.

You know you can get the primary filter at Napa right? For the electrical check your ground terminal at the frame from the batteries. Mine broke off today. The voltage was jumping around a bit until it broke off, then it pegged.

I'll install it if you get the Waterloo kit.

If you can build a simple bracket you can use a napa spin on filter base and run a 10 micron primary filter with water drain. I did that just before the Georgia rally. Keeps the secondaries cleaner too.