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It may work out ok. Check for cracks over time as it bounces around. Are you "allowed" to have the winch protrude out past the front bumper like that? Maybe, like a trailer hitch in the rear (is that allowed or should by law it be removed?). If you rear end somebody, you are in the doghouse...
Just changed the thermostat in an LDT engine with a new 180F NAPA unit. Temp will not exceed 180F, but will drop to 160F or so when driving in about 30F weather without the winter front cover on.
Is this "normal" for this vehicle/engine? If so, is this likely due to the direct drive cooling...
Can I insert a small thread-jack here as a one liner since we have the PTO geniuses in the room? Has anybody ever done an air shift conversion of an M939A2 PTO? I'm wanting to do it, and if I knew the PTO model number, I could check to see if such is available. Or, maybe I needed to do a...
One of the light modules. They are chained together to feed power through, in addition to a leap-frog of power wires so lessen the load on each solder bridge. It was configured this way initially, so I simply continued it.
Thanks bud. Sorry for the hang up. We'll get through this, and then everybody will be able to do it also. Full width LED light bars front and rear for $200! When I had it on, it was like having the sun screwed onto to your truck.
Pics coming as soon as we have it working correctly. It's...
I'm ok with the wiring right now. I want to get the lamp modules working correctly and then conduct a measurement, and size accordingly.
Each LED is 3W, and there are 140 of them. Just FYI. Stay tuned, thanks.
Thanks for the input Tim, we'll see. It is way louder than it is supposed to be and the LED's flicker also when on 24V. On 12V, the light is silent and non-flickering if I use one ground wire, but not another which I added, but at 12V it is sucking about 40A like it should be so I can't run it...
Well, a short term set back. The light bar is together (sans lens) and works, but makes a loud buzzing/hissing sound when supplied with 24V. On 12V, there is no noise. The bar is supposed to be able to handle 12-30V range. It seems as if one of the voltage regulators on one of the light...
I think you generically meant a tee. You'd simply use what is called a 6 port, 2 position diverter valve (or machinery selector valve), and place this after the directional control valve. Here is a $150 example that may be the exact part to use. In addition to this, you would need adapters to...
This thread can cease as far as the winch motor cost.
I am going to go the solenoid/manifold route to expand the hydraulic system. Otherwise, a 6 port 2-way diverter valve would allow one to chose which winch, and that would have to be placed after the directional control valve, as mentioned...
Here is the 70" LED light bar assembled with all reflectors, just waiting for the lens to arrive. Also included a shot of the difference of flood vs spot reflectors. Flood reflectors are on each end, with spot reflectors in the middle.
*Thread-jack apology*
Not really. Being an M925A2, I already have one hydraulic 20k Garwood up front. I procured a second same hydro 20k Garwood winch complete including frame rails, mounting brackets, frame extensions, 280 feet of cable and chain hook, all that jazz, most of which I don't...
I have the light modules in and soldered up. I upgraded the power wires going to the unit to 12ga, but I may have to upgrade them further yet. The light bar is now 420W, so at 24V that is nearly 20 amps. When I power the light bar up, it works and is crazy bright, but it is flashing slightly...
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