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RE: Re: RE: Flat Tow m342a2? You should be fine flat towing that with a M35A2. Just the usual reminder about reduced braking ability and tight turns at slow speed on dirt or rough pavement.

Thanks for the offer Chris. However, that clamp has made one of my students very happy. I gave him the rusted clamp, two wrenches and a can of penetrating oil on Monday. This is his first project and he thinks it is great. Wednesday had him bragging to the other students about how he fixed...

I can kind of claim that one. I am not done with the bed of the truck yet however.

Until I picked up my new to me M35A2 from OKC. I had never seen a multifuel pre-cleaner mushroom cap held on with the actual clamp before. Of course, my clamp was rusted solid in the too loose to hold the thing on position, but too tight to slide off the sleeve itself. That meant I couldn't...

Glad to know it wasn't something obvious. I asked because I plan to use one of my trailers as my "command tent" for a Scout camp out weekend in a week. I want to start loading stuff up now while I have time and don't want snakes or other critters getting into the trailer through the holes...

Both of my M105 trailers have a set of square holes in both sides and the front bed side. I have been meaning to ask for a long time now what those holes could possibly be for. Anybody know?

RE: Re: RE: Wondering what it takes to single out a rear axl Sorry about the waaay to late post. I opened the thread up an hour or so ago, dealt with stuff at work and came back to it without refreshing the page.

RE: Re: RE: Wondering what it takes to single out a rear axl Look at your front wheels. Notice how the rim is even with the end of the hub? Now, look at a rear hub. It sticks out way past the wheel. The front hub is flipped "out" and the rear hub is flipped "in." Just unbolt a rear hub and...

My Gasser had that cap start leaking as well. I pulled the entire block off and swapped it out with another one I had. No more leak. I then took the old one apart. Don't take it apart. There is a spring in there that flies real well. Seriously, there is a movable plate in there that as...

RE: cab The only advice you can get is from people that have done it. Remove all the shifters inside the cab, remove the seats and anything else that can reduce weight. Obviously, unhook everything too. Your only real decision is the steering column. Leave it and pull the cab up and back at...

I agree on the people. I have never been to a gathering yet where everybody wouldn't drop everything to help somebody out. The only problem is we all want to talk the entire night through.

I am glad you finally had some pictures that showed Chris. I even called him last night to see why he wasn't at the rally. He insisted he was there but not in any pictures. Looks like a fun time was had by all.

That is a Gasser cab. You can see the rusted plate on the floor above the throttle pedal where the starter button used to be. What do you want to do? Gasser gauge panel with the Tach hung somewhere else or Mulitfuel dash with a multifuel gauge panel?

Yes on at least pulling the wheel cylinder apart, cleaning it up and putting it back together. I wrote the above without trying to sound like a commercial for Mike. However, he does have some great kits that take care of all the parts you can replace in the front.

It kind of comes down to what you want the vehicle to be able to do and your intended use? Shows, parades, cross country drives at 70 mph, logging, etc...

This will sound cheap, but check your grounds. Un grounded light buckets do some really stupid things. Such as holding the bucket in my hand and hooking a single wire to the truck. Turn on that circuit and a different bulb than what is plugged in lights up. To continue the crazy thing...

The zipper ones are somewhat easy to replace. You just got your truck, right? Do you have a place it can sit for a week or so? Here is what I would suggest. You have no clue what condition the front bearings, seals, u-joints, drive shaft bushings, inner seals, brake wheel cylinders, brake...

M34 as Mike pointed out. To fix the year, some more pictures are needed. Look at the fender end of the tool box and battery door. If they are shaped to fit next to the fender, then it is probably a 1952 or older truck. See picture below. Look at the firewall. If it is flat, then it is...

The only two trucks I have ever seen with the washer on them had the bottle near the steering column under the hood. The hand pump for the liquid was near the air cleaner warning sight glass inside. Show us some pictures.

Another tip that made my install real easy. You need to drill into the M35 frame rail to mount up the hitch. I hate laying on my back and drilling up. It hurts my arms and no matter what I wear for eye protection, something always gets by. So, this time I put the big reduction 1/2" drill on...