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As pointed out above, it is the engine vent tube. For future reference, extend it below the axle so anything that vents or "slobbers" out will hit the ground first and not your front axle.
The noise could have been because the air compressor has weak piston rings. There should be a check...
But, is your vent line for the MC still connected to the AirPak vent line?
There is a PS article about how the brake vent needs to be by itself and not part of the air pack vent line.
I just did mine Wednesday. I used a hydraulic ram hooked to the lunete ring and up against the top of the landing leg tower. I put pressure on it until the leg tower started to flex. Then I used the biggest sledge my class has and started beating on the lunette. 3 blows and it popped off...
Crawl underneath and see if you can bench press the transmission up a few inches. My first thoughts are transmission mount or worn leaf spring bushings. Maybe shock mounts too, but they tend to rattle.
I have read on here for years that a Chevy truck receiver is a basic bolt on. I have been looking for one at junk yards and such. I found a Dodge truck receiver (Mopar sticker on the hitch) for the right price (free) and set to making it work. It was about 8 inches too wide, so I had to cut...
Yes that is me. Yes, I understand the "I just got a new Duece and I have to drive it RIGHT NOW!" symptoms as well. We will have other chances to sit around and visit.
The 8022 deals with the older Gasser panel that had the breaker on the panel and electric air psi gauge. What wires exactly are you having trouble with? I don't have my stuff here at work, but I can look it up at home.
The manuals in the resource drop down at the top of the page have the wiring diagrams. You want the (1965) noted manuals.
I personally love the 9-8022 manual. Mine is a 1954 published book. It is basically a -10 and -20 combined into one book. Look for it on E-Bay or even pay the money at...
You have to have a valid drivers license that lets you drive around in a regular vehicle. That is it besides proper insurance and registration.
If you register it as a former military vehicle, you won't need plates, window sticker or inspection.
Thanks for posting the trouble shooting manual. I don't think I have seen that before. Very informative in real world terms compared to trying to look at 6 pages at once to decipher the IP manual.
Andy, that linked trouble shooting manual should have answered all your questions.
Grab the fan blade and try to make the pump wiggle front to back. If it is solid, my guess is your truck sat for a long time and the seal is just getting used to having work to do again. Most of them however have loose shafts as well. That is why I suggested the new pump.
My A2 from OKC had some pretty colorfull old looking coolant in it. Go with a new pump, new belts, hoses and add a coolant filter. Then make sure you use distilled water when you mix in the new stuff. Actually, it is cheaper to buy the pre-mixed stuff they sell now days. Plus, the addative...
The winch on my Gasser only leaks the first 5 minutes of use. The rest of the time I use it, no leaks. Sitting for weeks between uses, no leaks. I just get about 4 drops from the passenger side at the drum while it is warming up. I redid it about 18 months ago.
Here you go.
You can make the ends from scratch if you really wanted to. The best thing to do is to find a donor frame front end. Try sending a PM to Kwai. He has or at least he had the front foot of a frame that would be perfect for you.
How much are you planning to use the winch? I ask because you can go 3 different directions from where you are now.
1) Seldom use anticipated, put in the proper amounts, see if it leaks and if it does, leave it alone because you will never use it. The oil will be more of a rust preventative...
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