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I’m coming up blank with the info you posted as well. Any chance you could post some dimension’s, and price? I did stumble across a few other possibilities in my futile search that I need to look further into.

All is looking good! Yes, tilting your panels can make a huge difference. Chris, have you looked into how well urine and aluminum play together, might want to add an anode of some type?

It would help if we knew how you will be using your truck.

I think Valley Rock is working on a m939 series. Speaker is built into the module that controls the dash warning lights as well.

Put a piece of electrical tape over the speaker, it will almost completely mute the squeal. Then if want, you can peal back just enough for as much as you can tolerate.

I’m going to guess when yo lay them across your tandems, You will realize this probably won’t work, but will be for a fun experiment though! I would start with just one set. You can always use them on the front. You might look at putting bridge truck dog bones on both or maybe just the rear set...

Same cause as one of my leaks, actually made some new seals out of heater hose to allow for a better grip.

Also, use shop air connected to the the red glad hand with engine off, in the run position if available. If no shop air, pull the hand throttle all the way out while airing up and checking for bubbles.

With your system now “working” air down to emergency then while filling back up to hwy, start with a heavy soap solution in a spray bottle on the wheel valves, connections, and associated plumbing. There are a lot of different leak prone problem areas on these systems as well as the hub seals...

Regardless of why down tubes were designed on these return lines, if you still have yours and it doesn’t leak that is one less place to introduce air, if your check valves aren’t doing their job perfectly while not running.

Looks to be at least two left, I think @gimpyrobb has at least one tranny that needs rebuilt?

I would throw a new overflow check valve on the pump. Also, check to make sure your fuel tank dip tube on the return line is still intact.

Yep, just use boards on mine. Just started working on a proper tailgate now, so I can do a better job spreading gravel.

Possibly sucking air in the fuel system, or fuel shut off solenoid dropping partially closed? Does it fire right off when starting after sitting over night? Zip tie the shutoff open to eliminate it…

I wonder if that engine/trans swap is done yet as well?[emoji6] @74M35A2

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Aparently your hitch isn’t that pointless…

Yep, I think a roller lever micro switch down at the base on the side of the shifter could be made to work to sense neutral. Might need to swap on a bigger roller if you can’t get it low enough on the shifter travel.

Not sure where the tee is now, but if you put it directly in the outlet of the master cylinder and had the appropriate rated excess flow valves screwed into it, could have potential to get you an emergency stop. It’s a shame Franks not still around…[emoji17]

Are you fighting low or no heat in the cab, If so have you checked flow through the heater core? If poor or none make sure the valves at the block are open and not plugged and try flush the core then reverse the lines to help dislodge debris. Also a complete cooling system flush is probably...