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Will the truck still move in all other gears?, or did it quit completely?
If it quit completely, check to make sure your transfercase did not drop down into neutral.
There are 3 bolts that connect the pump drive flange to the pump drive gear which are accessed by removing the oil fill tube on the front of the motor. To remove all three, the crankshaft needs to be rotated. The pump should NOT have come out without removing these bolts first.
The stuff on the bumpers/fenders of my truck looks just like the non=skid we used aboard ship on the weather decks.
EXTERIOR NON-SKID COATING SYSTEMS
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=US+Navy+non-skid&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=US+Navy+non-skid&gs_rfai=&fp=bcdf8cbbf06dc4f
For sale items, I can understand not clogging up the forums, but when someone needs something related to a project they are working on, I mean, isn't that what this site is supposed to be about?
Or not. . .
Actually most of the examples of "ad's" cited were posted within the last few days.
For example:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/49660-6-2-engines-injector-pump-assy-sale.html
Mine did the same thing, after a long run, oil (motor) would pour out of the bell housing in steady stream for a couple of minutes.
Did you use the thread lock on the sleeve when you installed it?
The problem I had with mine was the seal spun in the seal housing that bolts to the back of the block. The only way to know is to drop the tranny, flywheel, etc. . .
I know it's a PITA, but to fix it, it's what you need to do.
Ed
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