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The conversion for the -005 should be exactly the same as the -004; the schematics I used for the -004 cover both models. This de-rating thing can be a complicated question. We have a few things to worry about: 1. The current through individual generator windings. I have not yet taken...

If you do the modification as I have described, your 2 "hot" legs are L1 and L3, and the neutral is L0. As the gen sits right now (without the CT mod I am planning), it could be used in single phase with no problem. The way the overloads work in these sets is different than a common thermal...

If there isn't enough detail in my video, let me know. I'll send you some more detailed footage and/or pics. I'll have another one apart this weekend.

Sure does make them more useful for the person looking for a backup gen for their home! I got the chance to put about 58A (14kW) on the set for about an hour tonight; no issues at all. In fact, voltage varied by less than 1 volt from no load to 58A, which is actually better than it does in its...

Got finished with work a little early today, so I spent some more time reading over the schematics. I don't believe the difference between 208v and 240v is significant, as 240v is within the normal adjustment range of the VR during normal 3 phase operation. I believe I identified and...

I had hoped for this kind of collaboration...thanks! I had an hour or so to sit down and read the principles of operation for the VR/exciter, and study the schematics. It looks like the VR makes 3 connections to the generator leads; T8, T9, and T12. That gives it 2 separate legs of 120v, and...

I guess it depends on how many things need to be switched over :) I do know what the switch inside of the MEP-002 and -003 looks like (I had to remove, disassemble, and repair one once). It's a nightmare.... On another note, I did manage a few minutes to reset the generator for 3 phase and...

Yep...a 20v droop is very excessive and means that the set can't be used for a situation that varies between zero and full load. A 5kW variance from something like 10kw up to 15kw would be fine, as the voltage would only move 5-6 volts. But the issue still remains. I have a feeling that it is...

Had an hour or so to do some testing tonight. It is about 10 degrees below freezing outside, so for the first time I set up the load bank and generator inside of my closed shop and plumbed the exhaust outdoors. Normally my waste oil furnace does a fine job of keeping the shop warm, but it gets...

The answer is a little complicated... The overloads will trip at 130% rated current (or about 56A, which is 13.4kW). 100% rated current, or 43A, is about 10.3kW. So...the short answer is no, you can only get about 13kW out of it, operating just below the overload trip setpoint. Because of...

Yep! This means that this conversion to 120/240 single phase low zigzag isn't a permanent mod...a person could shut the set down and, in less than 1 minute, reconfigure it back to 120/208 3 phase. I will be playing around with the CT's to allow for 100% load and accurate current readings on...

It just means that the main breaker isn't closing. The tests you did prove that it isn't just an indication problem; the breaker actually isn't closing. It should close with the battleshort switch on, regardless of whatever alarms are occurring. I'll take a quick look at the schematic later...

Here's the video describing the conversion: EDIT: This video has been superseded with another video, describing additional steps necessary for proper meter and VR operation. Available at the end of post #1.

Low zigzag reconfiguration is complete! Just finished a bit of testing tonight; its works as predicted. 120/240v single phase on L1-L3. Voltmeter's other positions become rather useless, but it still works properly when selected to the L1-L3 position. I haven't done any load testing on it...

Not doubting you in any way, just wanting to make sure we're on the same page (hard to tell exactly what is going on when I'm not there in person watching things happen): 1. You started up the generator with the battleshort switch in "off" (shouldn't be able to start it with the BS switch in...

I have one service wired to L1, L2, L0 and the second service wired to L2, L3, L0. This means that I'm using all 3 phases and I can get close to the rated power out of the genset, but it is never balanced. I tried to set it up so that most of my constant 120v loads were on L1 (house) and L3...

OK; after the set is running, place the battleshort switch in battleshort. Then try to close the main breaker again. Let us know if it closes or not. This will help to prove if the main breaker is working, and if there is a problem with the reverse power alarm circuitry...

The fact that your voltage meter is reading is a good sign; I suspect that nothing too serious is wrong. If you're trying to adjust frequency with the little knob on the control panel labelled "frequency adjust," it won't do anything on your generator. That control circuitry is nonexistent...

Nope. It works just fine. In fact, the tech manual says it is permissible, provided you don't exceed 100% of rated current on any single phase. My personal setup in my shop and house is ideal, because I am supplying 2 independent services so I can fully load my genset (although it is never...

Yep; my plan is to get 100% of the generator's rated output from L1 and L3 at 120/240v; same as common residential service. This also allows you to get 240v, instead of 208. Wow...missed that one during my searches! The author of that web page did EXACTLY what I was planning to do, with...