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Depends on what is 'bad' about the turbo. If it has a wobble or is scored up, I would tow it home. If it has an oil seal gone out, make sure which side it's leaking on! Leaking on the intake side = runaway motor. Leaking on the exhaust side = MESSY exhaust, and potentially bigger problems...

Does the rear most axle lift? Man, that is one SWEET truck! And a very nice setup there with the water tank being able to quick load like that.

I have read that page so many times it's not even funny.

Wow, that looks like a good combination 'as is'.

A well done surface mount thermostat should be fairly close to accurate on the block temperature. That IS what they were made for after all. Might take a little work to find a good spot to mount it though. Now, on the deuce, seeing as I don't have a block/coolant heater on it, getting a...

Using a large screen in the funnel is the best route. Easy to retrieve the plug later, and still catches the large debris. One note on catch pans, make sure that they have plenty of space left over. I HATE spilling oil trying to drag a pan out from under a vehicle because the pan is 'too full'...

Do you leave that pressure gauge on your tank at all times? And it's only a flange/fitting on mine. No tubes inside (at least the ones I have checked so far).

The Zerostart is nice. But I am not going to replace all the heater setups on my tow trucks. The surface mount thermostat I posted a link to earlier would work very well for my setup. And it is rated for switching under full load. Big thing about all these other ideas is that they don't seem to...

And yes, the differing temperatures could save some money when you keep trucks plugged in all the time.

Ah, searched around some more, and a darn simple surface mount thermostat switch would seem to be VERY easy to wire into either the coolant or oil pan heater setup...

Yeah, about 50 bucks for a 25 amp, surface temp controller, 240v though. Everything else they have goes up from there. Would get kind of spendy if you use one for the coolant and another for the oil pan (don't forget the fuel ;) )

Yeah, I wouldn't really be worried about heating it to 160°. That makes it nice for turning the heater on as soon as you start the vehicle. But that does take a bit more electricity then what is really needed. Hmm, water bed thermostat. Interesting idea in that it would be a pretty easy...

Been thinking about this one a bit more lately. It wouldn't seem to be too difficult of an issue to setup a temp cutoff switch for either the oil or water heaters. These heaters can take a LOT of electricity if you leave them on! But if you set a temperature for them to come off/on at, it would...

Also don't forget, they get hot if just sitting out, but if they are up against the cold metal pan. And assuming cold air around the motor, then heater will only get so warm. But if it gets that warm when it's on the pan, then Bjorn has a good point on limiting the time you run it.

Plenty of stuff to read in the Alt fuels section. I have ran a lot of WMO, gear oil, hydraulic oil, atf, etc. The biggest thing to filter out is the WATER! I run my oil/fuel combo through a water separator/filter before running it. I like to use a larger mesh to catch the detritus before it...

Yup, just had to do that with one of mine today. If it only needs a little bump, I will just hook it up to one battery. If it is really low on power, I hook one up to each battery, which I did today. Nothing special, just hook the jump box up to ONE battery. Normal like anything else, pos to...

Spicer 3053A, 5th o.d. : 5.013, 2.776, 1.624, 1.000, 0.787, R 4.888

Just because it can be, doesn't mean it has to be.

Man, for that price I have FOUR for sale! It does look nice, but what a rip.

I try and rotate through the four deuces I have sitting. One doesn't have a top, so it only gets moved when the weather isn't too wet (unless I MUST move it). And the M109 doesn't get driven too much because I am using it for mobile storage right now. It drove 360 some odd miles home though, in...