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Unless your making aluminum battery boxes, you dont need the spool gun. {aluminum wire is hard to push } An 1/8" thick floor is pretty thick, not sure what duece floors are but that seems thick. Even if it is 1/8" you dont need the spool gun for mild steel. Only reason I'm saying that is I hate...

I get my best MPG with the engine shut off pulled out :whistle::lol: Seroiusly, only checked it twice and got a little better than 9. Run mostly around 45, never over 50. Also never drive it hard. Never in a hurry using it. Somebody mentioned it, but some of our new diesel trucks dont do as...

Well it should be a great project and cool family project. My son and I have a M35 and a M813 which we love. But there is something about the 40's and 50's trucks thats just plain cool. You have came to the right place for information. Although everyone strongly encourages looking things up in...

I dont know anything about these trucks but always liked them. Will keep an eye on your post to follow your progress. Good luck with the restoration. [thumbzup]

The Millermatic 252 is an awesome machine. I may have missed it in your post, but what did you need the spool gun for? Aluminum I suppose?? Spool gun for aluminum hooks up easily. But I only use the spool gun on thicker aluminum, like channel or heavier angle, trailer ramps etc. Thinner...

I Put $136.00 in fuel in mine :driver:Washed and getting ready for the "Big truck show" this coming Saturday.

Oh that would be way to easy !!

My thinking was from erroneous assumption because my letters were the same as the turbo's!!!!! :whistle: Like you said lots of wrong information out there. Thanks again for clearing it up. I learned something new.

Thanks Clinto. Guess I was thinking that because my "C" and "D"s on the block, matched the turbos too. From what your saying, its just a coincedence :D

Pretty sure a "1C" is the C turbo and the "1D" is the "D" turbo. But either trubo will bolt on. My M35 has the LDT-465-1C in it, but I have a LDT-465-1D for a spare and the turbo is slightly larger.

Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota... All have strengths and weakness's... alot of times personal preferences.

My M813 is with State Farm. I know its not a M925, but both are 5-tons. It seems its more with the agents than it is with the Companies.

Thanks for posting pictures. Looks like a great truck to fix up.

Wow thats stuck. Hope didnt break anything. Nice looking truck. Whats the old factory in the back ground?

Doghead. You amaze me with how fast you come up with the correct TM. I am getting better with them, finding things. They are still not layed out like commercial manuals so takes some getting used to.

Great drawing and idea. But for me, probably not worth all the effort. Maybe if I used them commercially might be. Still, good idea though.

Actually a quick look at the fan and you can tell there is no clutch. Pretty straight forward desgin. Fan blade bolted to a hub. 180 is great, mine runs in the same range even on hot day

You might be right Bob. Most of the modern truck seals are approximately 1/2" thick or so where the seal meets the hub. So these may be a bit thin. Plus I'm not sure its really worth the effort to change. The grease does work fine with normal maintenance. But would be something to consider if...

I agree with you. The 2 I had leaking were due to the cork gone out of key way. If you are changing yours to wet hubs, what seal number are you going to use?. Of course what I use my trucks for [parades, car shows etc] the grease works just fine. But was thinking if I ever had another issue may...

Ive worked on trucks all my life and this is the first truck I've seen "with" greased bearings. I understand why the military did it, but does anyone have a part number to replace the inner seal with a double lip seal?? A double lip seal, like modern trucks use, will keep oil in and water out...