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I used 4 , threaded post, grp 31's. I dont really care for the lead post/clamp anyway. Had to make a new hold down, but they will fit.

It does seem impossible to cut pipe perfectly square. I have horizontal band saw, porta bands, chop saws etc. The only thing I have used that cut it very square is a cold saw. It uses a blade that looks like a regualar wood blade, but turns slower. Otherwise if I need it to fit very close, I cut...

Oh yeah gotcha on holding that square. Did look good though. But you can still use one bolt and one piece of round stock/tubing. The rear bushing moves some, just tap it rearward flush on inside. Of course you already have on and looks great so no need. Just in case anybody else wants to make...

Just looked up and yes that is a 27 si alternator. That part number is a good one and one of about at least a half a dozen 27si models. As far as paying full retail, depending on the brand, NAPA wholesale is around what you paid. Retail is well over $200. So dont think you did bad. Get mine...

Thanks, Just ordered a 27si. 200 series 24 volt, 65 amp. One wire. and double pulley to fit original belts. $99 for new alternator and $8 for pulley. Will keep you posted on how it works out in case others could use the info. Rebuild kit for the 27si is $34 for future use. Very common alternator...

Which Delco Alt did you use. Looks like a 21si ???

Funny I feel the same, those big old singles work great for somethings, but not everything. I like the duals as well, looks good. At work we tried them on Line trucks, worked well but when flat guess what? your done! cant even move off road. And the tires weigh so much very hard for one guy to...

I dont have a question. I read the TM and went by it and realized the tests were a waste of time. Ive been a mechanic for 30+ years and have read and used all kinds of service manuals, now mostly all on line. So service manuals are not new to me at all, neither are wiring diagrams. But if you...

Something I have noticed is the TMs are great, but there is often a more straight forward way of doing something than is written. Of course I am sure they were written with a certain audience in mind, or by engineers...:beer:

Well our M813 is not charging. So went through the checks, prtoection box ok but nothing coming out of alternator, so pulled and will check out. now that i think about it, i doubt its been charing since we've had it, relaced batteries when we got it, needle never really was up in green very...

If the vin# wasnt used as part of the hood number, I wonder what they went by. I am know there is an official markings policy or method, but does seem to vary alot. I can not remember ever looking at the data plate on any I drove back then. I guess someone serving now could look and tell us...

We used M35's in 29 palms, Ca. I worked for the unit that conducted the live fire training. -[84-86] Later we turned those in and got new M923's. We also used M151's. MRC-109's, MRC-110's. After I left they got Hummers.

Here is the one I was looking for https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?73656-1980-s-usmc-markings-needed https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?76513-did-usmc-ever-use-m35a2.html

Seems it was never consistent. I have pics in photo album of M151's with USMC on hood and 6 digit number, and I found one of a new M923 with USMC - ###### on left side of tilt hood. But these were only 1" tall letters/numbers. That was from 1982-1986. I thought that the number was the last part...

I dont remember any of our trucks having unit markings, only a 6 digit truck number. Which was the last of the vin #. But that was 30 years ago, I am sure things have changed. Here is a picture how I marked My duece. I marked it like the trucks I drove were marked. But its yours so anything is...

Hey thats awesome, Finally something good out of Md MVA

and then....when something works we are shocked :)

I love the liltle ranting switch thing at the bottom. :beer: but have you noticed every thing you do today, be it your bank, insurance and GL, its a big run around. Nothing seems straight forward.

I worked in a body shop when still in high school, like 30 years ago, phew. back then all we used was plain old acrylic enamels and at the time, new laquers. I know none of that stuff is used to day with the clear coats and all, but the old enamels are easy to use and very forgiving. Rapco stuff...

I used Rapco 383 green, but used rustoleum flat black oil based enamel, and I used thinner [mineral spirits] same as i used with the rapco green.