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If you are not sure of the battery(s) condition, swap the batteries front to back and see if the problem changes. Over 15 volts is not good.

I was thinking it's and armored VW Thing.

Some regulators don't need the light in the circuit to turn on. Check the bulb. The voltage at each battery should be about 14.5.

When you say the voltmeter fluctuates, do you mean you can see it moving up and down while you are looking at it or does it move slowly over time? As everything heats up, you will see the voltmeter change. Mine runs near the top of the green when I first start it and it drops about one needle...

Just because you supply the information doesn't mean it will come back that way. I included the manufacturer's name for my trailer when I applied to GP for the title and it showed up with the manufacturer listed as "USMC". Maybe the manufacturer's name was too long and the person typing was...

Take your battery hold down bracket with you and see if it will work with the battery you want to use. I have group 31's in my M1028A2 and they fit the bracket and are the right height for the hold down bolts.

+2 on checking the master cylinder push rod free play. If there is not enough clearance before the rod touches the master cylinder piston, it will cause to brakes to slowly apply going down the road. I don't remember the spec, but 1" of free play measured at the peddle is probably close.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the relays are wired differently. All of these relays in my M915A1 are the same if I'm not mistaken. Terminal 30 is the input and terminal 87 is a Normally Open output when the relay is not energized, 87A is a Normally Closed output when the relay is not energized.

Skill.

You said that right.

That was cool, thanks for sharing.

Ha, Ha, with .456 gears (I have a M1028A2) it's wound pretty tight at 55 mph so it sounds like you are racing. You just aren't going anywhere very fast!

I did read it Mark. Just because someone doesn't like your advice does not make it bad advice. Considering I had to do this on one occasion for something not related to FMVs it is sound advice.

OD, I figured taking your foot off the gas or partially lifting when down shifting was a no-brainer. Maybe some need concise directions. So.... Don't down shift with your foot (and gas peddle) on the floor unless you are racing! :cool:

Looks good!

I down shift manually when necessary since the throttle vacuum modulator valve on my truck is bypassed. With .456 gears I don't have to do it often.

Maybe you should go to a different tag office and just transfer the title. If they ask if you want to register it, tell them no.

As far as registering a title, as Florida resident, GP (and GL for that matter) should/did send you a Florida title IN YOUR NAME if you wanted them to issue you a title and you paid for it. The title is/was optional and cost extra. If GP sent you a re-assigned title (one that that is in GP's...

When the engine is cold, I let my glow plugs cycle 3 times before I try to start it. I turn the key on and wait for the GP controller to click on and off 3 times. This takes about 30 seconds. When you turn on the ignition and you hear the GP controller clicking on and off, look at the volt...

Fluid in the cylinders will eventually make it past the rings into the oil pan. Drain the oil to see whats in there. Try baring the engine after you drain the oil. You can bar the engine over at the accessory drive pulley.