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That's a great idea Zev, I was just wondering what Rusty's approach was to this.

Well, the turbo does have some shaft play, but not an abnormal amount. I guess what I was hearing was a bad bearing on the low side of the transfer case, being as you had it in low. I put it in high and no more noise. I've warmed it up and driven it about 6 miles total and haven't been able to...

I know the electric winch is easier to operate than the Garwood, but it just doesn't have as much cable. And what are you doing about the high amp draw Rusty? To really take advantage of that winch you could probably use a couple more batteries and a bigger ( like 200) amp alternator.

I guess I just need to find one for $10 now... I am not spending $700 on a pacbrake.

I shortened my box but left it in the stock location so I can still see and reach my fuel filters without having the box in the way. Just personal preference.

Yeah I know, I just like to really see what I'm looking at when I can. If the button were the problem, it wouldn't start or run at all.

So the newer pistons are only 1/8" shorter. Should still be plenty of meat left to cut more ring grooves.

Well, my first impression upon pulling it off of the trailer yesterday, is that the turbo is probably shot. It sure sounded like it. If I can wade through the mud and get it checked today I'll update.

And there is no reason to call names. I wasn't trying to start an argument.

Porky, you are 100% correct. Gravity bleeding alone is not sufficient to remove all of the air. However, these systems move so much fluid that after you gravity bleed so that you have some kind of pedal, a bit of working the pedal, say one half push every 5 minutes over maybe an hour, then...

Rusty, they are exactly the same in every way, except the front axles had the ball and claw shafts, and the brake drums all have larger grease/ crud escape holes.

I believe you, I'm just telling you that some deuces I've worked on have had Timken tags on the axles instead of Rockwell. That what the old ball and claw front shafts were out of too, those were Timken shafts.

Gravity bleeding is simple. Just an example: you just replaced a wheel cylinder, and it has no fluid in it, but there is fluid above it in the lines and master cylinder. All you do is open the bleed screw on the part you just replaced and wait for gravity to pull the fluid down and fill the...

I wouldn't call getting all the air out with less fluid loss cutting corners. And no, I'm not trying to pick a fight with you Porky. I just see so many people wasting tons of fluid, or even better, not being able to successfully bleed their brakes at all. Through all the work I've done on these...

Bench bleed it before you install it, then gravity bleed it once you have it installed. Then let it sit overnight and you shouldn't have to do any active bleeding at all.

Porky, I agree that the truck needs all the drums to be gone through, and a flush is in order as well, that being said.... There is no reason to use a gallon of fluid to bleed the brakes on any of these trucks. Not unless the system is dry. I have replaced master cylinder, all 6 wheel cylinders...

If it ever comes down to it, I'll take them and get a couple more ring grooves machined into them.

Alright, who has one on their truck? Which one did you use? How did you install it? Pics please if possible. Some recent posts have peaked my interest.

Any particular exhaust brake you were considering using? I've never looked into them before.

It will never stop.