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Three degrees of caster helps!

Remove large plug from the top, add fluid. You only need to take it apart to change the filter. A J

Think "fork lift".

80/90 is good IMO if you are fording creeks and such, change it regularly, no sense in expensive synthetics. I might point you to ARMY LO 9-2320-280-12 good reading. And FYI, these things have silicone brake fluid in them. DO NOT mix it with any other type! Beautiful part of the country you...

Pull the hub inspection plate and check the big gear. If it has any significant miles it would show on the gear, easy to get to. With the indicated miles there should be almost no wear pattern. MY 2 cents.

Do you own tools....... lots of tools, and know how to use them???????

I think 75C is like in the mid 100s or so. I wouldn't worry about the diffs until you see 250 deg. or more. Most here would never work one hard enough to get them that warm. Just my 2 cents.

Yes

A. A length of 2x4 or 4x4 steel tubing from side to side might allow you to move your balance point to a better position. For what its worth. B. Care to elaborate on the make and model of your lift..... overhead space...etc. My birthday is coming up and I need a hint for my wife.

I AM AMAZED I wish you were my neighbor! You are an engineer .....right?

If its sucking air at the fuel filter you have a clogged filter (maybe) or the tank sock is plugged (probably). You did have a look in the tank, right???

Look at the parts list for the tube placement. Mine went in a little high and dropped down in front of the fan....... the studs on the radiator slipped in under the cushions on the lift brackets. If I understand whats going on here????

MONEY TALKS and walks to the front of the line.

Your fuel leak from the top area of the tank may not be the gasket, might be the vent tube ....three or four of them. Clean and watch them closely. Round thing with red wire is the fuel gauge sender, pull that and you can get a decent look into the tank. .....Drive shaft is easy, the sender...

Before proceeding any further I would run a compression check on this one before wasting any more time....... My two cents.....

6.5 NA engines have a lug on the back side of the harmonic damper that a 1 inch wrench fits perfect.

Never had to...... we have "cooled " the input yoke though to get the speedy-sleeve on. Involved a 3000 gal. tank of CO2, a 8 ft. wand and a cardboard box. I thought it a little munch to try and explain here though. Worked for us though and did not have to wait all night.

CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN..... carefully tap into place with a plastic mallet(hammer). If I remember there is a lip on the seal that ends up flush when its seated. A block of wood will work BUT it has to be started evenly first. These are usually not real tight........... for whats it worth.

I eyeballed my 1123 and it looks like the drive shaft will have to be moved aside, looks like the carrier bearing will have to removed also, big nut off, pull yoke out, seal out, clean, replace seal...... their is a TM on this that spells it all out..... too busy to read today, but looks...

The larger round end of the hose is a hydraulic disconnect fitting. Remove, clean, hope....